The art of ornamentation stands in an intimate relationship with the material, purpose, form and style. India’s rich culture of jewellery had the highest grade of diamonds from Golconda, the rarest sapphires from Kashmir. the greatest emeralds arrived in India from Colombia through commercial exchange via the Portuguese-controlled ports of Goa.
The South of India was known for its pearls, and the Pearl fishery coast extended from Tuticorin to Coomorin, in the Southeast.
Featured above is an ornament called guttapusal worn by the women in Andhra Pradesh - It originated in areas close to the ancient pearl fisheries along the coromandel coast - The term gutta meant bunches of small fish, and pusal are the beads. The main neckpiece would be set with cabochon rubies, diamonds and emeralds, and generously fringed with bunches of small pearls!
An interesting snippet shared by Vidya Gajapathi Raju Singh, (who is from the erstwhile family of the Princely state of Vijayanagaram, in Andhra Pradesh) during our Instalive session was that the Guttapusalu was worn with diamonds and bunches of seed pearls; and mostly worn by the women of tobacco growers! Interesting isn't it?
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